This time of year all many of us can think about is keeping cool. But escaping the searing heat that blankets entire swathes of the country comes at a cost. In my 130 year old Victorian, summer utility bills are stratospheric. But where does a person turn for help making decisions about cooling off when it seems like everyone has something to sell? Roofs, windows, air conditioning systems, insulation — companies making and selling these products all have their claims about cooling and energy savings. And how do you separate fact from myth when it comes to adages about keeping a home cool and keeping a lid on the utility bill?

Fortunately a couple of experts weighed in for NBC BETTER with some tips for how you can keep cool and carry on this summer. Lauren Urbanek is a senior program advocate, Center for Energy Efficiency Standards, Climate & Clean Energy Program at the Natural Resources Defense Council. And Robert Daguillard is a spokesperson for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. They helped us break down some cooling essentials.

The next thing in the process of air conditioner trouble shooting is to check the power by turning the switch of the fan to ‘on’ from ‘auto’. In case, nothing happens, means that the control has been burned or the power has been disconnected. But, if the blower works, it means that the power is there. If your system employs a furnace for the purpose of creating heat, confirm if the emergency button has been switched on.

If you have knowledge about the circuit breaker panel or fuse, look for tripped breakers or blown fuses. Fix up the problem only once. If the problem reoccurs, it is advisable to call for a professional.

At the time of air conditioner trouble shooting, when the fan is directed to ‘auto’ and selector switch to ‘cool’, turn the thermostat lower than the actual room temperature. If the condenser doesn’t work, but blower does, examine circuit breaker panel. The problem may be with the condenser, if breaker is working properly.

The first and most simple step to take to prolong your air conditioner’s life is to change the filter. You should change it whenever it gets dirty. Depending on the usage, that could range from every three to six months. There are some filters out there, which can last up to a year. Ask someone in the hardware store for more tips!

Once a year be sure that you check the evaporator coil located inside the air handler to make sure there is no dust build up.

When the weather starts to cool you should check the outside of the air conditioning. You should check around the unit and make sure there is no debris on the surface of the condenser that will stop airflow. Also you should check between the fins of the condenser to see that it’s not plugged with dead bugs or pollen. Spraying the condenser with a hose will usually be good enough to get rid of all the debris.

Air Conditioner Coils

The air conditioner’s evaporator coil and condenser coil collect dirt over their months and years of service. A clean filter prevents the evaporator coil from soiling quickly. In time, however, the evaporator coil will still collect dirt. This dirt reduces airflow and insulates the coil, reducing its ability to absorb heat. To avoid this problem, check your evaporator coil every year and clean it as necessary.

Outdoor condenser coils can also become very dirty if the outdoor environment is dusty or if there is foliage nearby. You can easily see the condenser coil and notice if dirt is collecting on its fins.

You should minimize dirt and debris near the condenser unit. Your dryer vents, falling leaves, and lawn mower are all potential sources of dirt and debris. Cleaning the area around the coil, removing any debris, and trimming foliage back at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) allow for adequate airflow around the condenser.

Coil Fins

The aluminum fins on evaporator and condenser coils are easily bent and can block airflow through the coil. Air conditioning wholesalers sell a tool called a “fin comb” that will comb these fins back into nearly original condition.

Condensate Drains

Occasionally pass a stiff wire through the unit’s drain channels. Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity, and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls or carpet.

Window Seals for Room Air Conditioners

At the start of each cooling season, inspect the seal between the air conditioner and the window frame to ensure it makes contact with the unit’s metal case. Moisture can damage this seal, allowing cool air to escape from your house.

Before you do that, there are a few things you should know. The following checklist will help you prep your AC for Florida’s short winter and ensure it works as well in the spring when you turn it back on as it did in the fall.

Winterize Your Florida Air Conditioner

• Get your unit serviced by an AC technician. You want peace of mind over the winter that your system was in good working condition. If you’ve been putting off an upgrade, the fall or early winter is an ideal time to replace your AC. Not only is downtime not a big deal but you might find some good prices this time of year.
• Clean your AC. Hose it off to remove bird droppings, dog urine, small creatures, and other things that make their way into our units down here. Pick up any twigs and clear away things that have grown up around the unit. You need the ventilation around it so make sure it’s free from high grass, weeds, and plants.
• Examine the condition of the coils from the outside. If you have a dog, it’s not uncommon for the dog urine to have a caustic effect on the unit.
• Replace your air filter. You should be doing this regularly anyway, based on the manufacturer’s suggestion, but a change of season is also a good reminder to do it, particularly because of fall’s dust and allergens that can be sucked up into it causing the system to run less efficiently.
• Check the condition of the AC unit. Look for cracks, pipes that aren’t connected, and drains that are clogged. You needn’t be an AC technician to be able to see a problem. With the heavy rains, winds, and hurricanes in Florida, things can become disconnected or cracked without us realizing it.

• Cover the AC and use foam insulation to cover pipes. This is not necessary except in extreme cold. Just for clarification, extreme cold is not 40 degrees. We suggest covering at temps closer to 20 and below. It could happen in the Tampa Bay area, although chances are you’re going to need the blanket more than your AC will.
• Check your AC every week or so for twigs and other debris that blows in as well as creatures that could be looking for a home when it gets chilly. Keep the unit clutter free and it should start fine come spring.

• Cover the AC and use foam insulation to cover pipes. This is not necessary except in extreme cold. Just for clarification, extreme cold is not 40 degrees. We suggest covering at temps closer to 20 and below. It could happen in the Tampa Bay area, although chances are you’re going to need the blanket more than your AC will.
• Check your AC every week or so for twigs and other debris that blows in as well as creatures that could be looking for a home when it gets chilly. Keep the unit clutter free and it should start fine come spring.

Another thing you may want to do while you’re prepping your AC for some well-deserved rest is fire up your heater to make sure it’s running efficiently. It’s better to know you have an issue now than to wait until you’re freezing at 4 a.m. in January.

Checking airflow is one of the most important checks. Instruments can measure pressure drop across the coil. If pressure drop tables are available, they indicate the cubic feet of air per minute (cfm) moving through the coil. An inclined manometer or Magnehelic gauge are examples of this type of instrument.

A velometer measures the velocity of the air in feet per minute (fpm). If the area of duct is known, the velometer reading times the area of duct (in square feet) calculates the airflow.

There are also simple mathematical formulas that are needed. All of them require measurements be taken. These measurements require a voltmeter, ammeter, and a good temperature tester.

A swamp cooler uses moisture to cool air. A swamp cooler (which is also called an evaporative air conditioner) works by taking warm outside air through wet evaporative cooler pads, effectively cooling the air. The cold air is then blown into a home by a blower motor through a vent. The main parts of a swamp cooler can be found in the diagram below.

In this article, we’re going to go through the main parts of your HVAC system’s ductwork, how they work, and when (and why!) they may need to be replaced.

There are several HVAC duct components that make up your HVAC system. Here are some of the main parts:

Ducts (Pipes and Trunks)

The duct pipes and trunks in your home and made of several different components. Simply put, the duct pipes and trunks are the main channels that connect to the air handler and provide a conduit for warmed or cooled air to be blown throughout your home. The duct trunk is the large main trunk, while the duct pipes connect that trunk to each room of your home.

Most of the time, these trunks and pipes are made of galvanized steel but, for places where your walls need a more bendable option, flexible aluminum can also be used. This aluminum is generally called flex piping in ductwork.

Besides the trunk and pipes, there are other ducts that bring air into very specific places within the home. For example, a tall, thin, vertical duct pipe is called a stack, which allows air to be blown vertically through a thin wall. Stack heads are found at the end of this type of duct pipes.

Duct Transitions

Obviously, these ducts need to be connected according to the shape of the home if your HVAC system is to work efficiently. There isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach to HVAC systems, so these duct trunks and pipes must be connected using duct transitions